Back in Shape with Cycling. Easy !

Years of rather sedentary lifestyle and unhealthy habits have been stacking under your belt. Does your health feels older than your age ?  You wish to win back some fitness, you'd like to feel better and losing some weight would be great too !... Sounds familiar ?  

Now, you wonder: "Yeah, but how ?"

5 Steps:

1. Pick a goal and routine.
- Make it fun, keep it fun.  
- Pick an EASY goal but STICK to it !
- Go from slow and short, to longer before aiming for faster.
- Do join a club or a group, but stick to your goals.
- Plan your routine around times that you'll be able to manage weekly.
- Set a weekly goal and a monthly goal with some allowance.
- Log all your rides with strava or another app.  It runs on your phone and it's free so no excuse.  This log will show you how you progress and it'll show you that you progress.

A good start if you're out of shape is for example : 1-2 rides weekly, 60 km weekly min. goal, 150 km monthly min. goal. Tue, Thu or Sun.  That'll gives some allowance miss some days and is a great start to win back your fitness.


2. Learn as much as you can about fitness and good nutrition.

- Read about fitness and cycling (eg. links below) 
- Learn why some food are better than others
- Define your own manageable boundaries and try to replace a bit of the bad stuff with healthier choices.
- Make sure you understand what your body needs. Keep in mind hydration and energy needs, before, during and after rides.  Avoid bonking and make sure you recovery needs are covered (with the healthy stuffs).
- Keep most of your riding aerobic.  you'll burn more, enjoy more and suffer less.  You will improve, gain endurance faster and lose weight.


3. Adapt your schedule as you progress and work on skills

- After 6-8 weeks respecting your initial routine.  Update your goals or make some small changes.
- Read up and practice pedalling technique, hill climbing, tweak you bike fit, try on cleats, share tips with your group/friends.
- Move up the pack and do a fair share of pulling.  
- Try a ride or part of a ride with a faster group.
- Continue to very gradually step up your routine.  After several months you should be able to aim for 2-3 rides per week. 100 km weekly. 300 km monthly. 


4. Don't push to hard too fast !!!

- If you are too enthusiast and push too hard too soon.  You'll likely burn out your motivation and risk injury.  
- If you can't stick to your routine, change it. Perhaps your initial goals were over estimated. 
- Aim primarily for developing endurance. Forget about speed improvements this will come naturally with better endurance.
- Once you know you can keep up with your routine and weekly or monthly goals.  Now, pick a yearly goal !

5.  Sign-up for an Event !

- There are many type of events in cycling.  Pick up one which fit well your typical weekly riding distance. eg. 60km initially. You know you'll enjoy it and that'll set a good initial benchmark.
- Organize your own event.  Such as discovery rides with friends or your own solo ride challenges.


To Summarize:

Follow those five easy steps.  Clean-up your bike and start this week !  
- Pick a goal and a routine.
- Learn about fitness and nutrition.
- Adapt progressively your goals and work on skills.
- Don't push to hard too fast. But STICK to your plan !
- Sign-up for an event.

Don't forget to keep your bike in top condition.  A road bike should be smooth to ride and it's not a music instrument.  Ride safe !


References and useful reading:

Health and Fitness
http://www.philmaffetone.com/dr-phil-s-books

Endurance
http://www.coach-hughes.com/resources/base_training.html

Nutrition
http://m.bicycling.com/training-nutrition

Cycling Technique 
http://www.cycling-inform.com
( check out the youtube channel)

Healthy Food
http://www.whfoods.com/foodstoc.php

Cycling : a preventive prescription to live better and longer ?

Why hasn't cyclism evolved more into a medical prescription ?! Isn't it amazing how much health benefits there are into this sport ? And how little sports are actually really advocated or recommended in the general medical or public awareness context ?

Have you ever heard any doctor send anyone home with : 'Get yourself a bike, ride it one hour every morning at moderate speed and come and see me 2-4 weeks later' ? After all, even if cyclism can be somewhat addictive, hasn't it less side effects that statins ?...

Certainly any cyclist answering these sort of questions would be biased. With that in mind, here is what I found out so far.

Positive effects include feel and look younger. But also :
- Live 10 more years from 45 min. of cycling per week (by lower risk of cardiovascular disease, type two diabetes, all types of cancer, high blood pressure and obesity).
- 39% overall reduced risk of dying by cycling to work.
- 50% less heart disease risks from 40 km cycling per week.
- 50% less bowel cancer risk.
- 50% less yearly sick days.
- 30% less impotence risks from 50 years old, with 3 hours of cycling per week.
- Loosing excess weight
- Lower stress / better mood.
- Lower resting heart rate.
- Reduced Alzheimer's risk.
- Reducing musculoskeletal pain for older adults.
- Improve endurance/stamina.
- Improve flexibility
- Improve coordination
- Improve interpersonal performance
- Improve self esteem
- Increases leg strength and bone density (which offsets osteoporosis)
- Increased productivity.

What about the risks ?

Road safety is clearly the biggest concern for cyclist. Here are some contrasting numbers. For 1 cycling death, based on UK stats, there was:

5x more Fire related death
30 x more Road User death
250 x more Cancer due to inactivity
500x more CHD casualty due to inactivity.

Still sceptic, or need more detailed statistics ? Please read more in those really well documented references.

1. Cycling and Health, What's the Evidence (www.cyclingengland.co.uk)
2. 30 Reasons To Take Up Cyclism. (bikeradar.com)
3. Do Cyclists (And Perhaps Triathletes) Live Longer? (endurancecorner.com)

Convinced now ?

Square Spindles Bracket and Bottom Bracket Maintenance

Cranks and bottom brackets can be tricky to handle.  Maintaining those key components might require a bit of extra help and/or a bit of encouragements.  Here are two step by step procedures to make this a bit more simple.

A. Crank Arms Removal

1. Optionally, remove the pedals while the crank arms are on the bike if you're replacing them.
2. Remove the center bolt caps on both left and right crank arms.
3. Unscrew the crank arm 8 mm nuts ( counterclockwise ) on both sides
4. Remove left crank arm with the puller (CCP-22 for square type spindles, see link below for other types)
5. Remove right arm with puller but note that the RIGHT side thread in the crank is INVERTED so the puller's washer goes in counterclockwise.

B. Bottom Bracket Removal
1. With the bike out of any stand and wheels on the ground. For English thread cups (68 or 73 mm), with a 20-tooth splined bottom bracket cups tool ( eg BBT-22 or X-Tools BB Tool for UN26, UN54, UN55, BB7420, or see link below for other types ) : untighthen COUNTERCLOCKWISE the LEFT side first. If it's locked too tight (not everybody's got a torque wrench) you might need a clamp or adjustable wrench .
2. With the BB tool, loosen the right side. The RIGHT side thread holding the BB is INVERTED therefore turn CLOCKWISE to loosen it.
3. Once both side are loosened, remove completely, clean up, inspect for damages and lubricate generously both the BB and the frame with grease.

Usefull Parktool Links :
Crank Puller For Square Taper 
Crank Installation and Removal Square Spindle Type
Crank Installation and Removal ISIS or Octalink
Bottom Bracket Tool Selection

Road Bike Comfort Tips - Asking the Right Questions !

The perfect fit is a bit the holy grail of cycling. Unfortunatly there is no universal receipe, it is indeed a very individual solution.

A bad fit can throw you off cycling, render your riding a total nightmare or completely compromise your performance. Actually, given enough time, persisting to ride in a poor position will certainly cause injury. Finding a good fit typically needs some experience with how various position changes does effect your body and comfort on a road bike. Comfort is the number one consideration. However, your body will also take some time (and many rides) to adjust if you are a new rider or if you're trying a slightly more aggressive position.


This article attempt to address various situations by asking the right set of questions so you can try a solution or another. However, only YOU will ever be the judge of what works or not.

A) For hands, arms and upper back comfort. Ask yourself :
- Does your handle bar size fit your shoulder size ?
- Is your glove padding too soft ?
- Does your bar tape absorb vibrations ?
- Does your handle bar tilt or horizontal position lets you slip forward ?
- Are your shifters too low/high and stretching you too much forward/backward ?
- Is your saddle tilted downwards causing you to slide forward ?
- Is your saddle too in front, pushing too much weight in your arms/hands ?
- Is your handle bar too low ? Is your neck tired after long rides ?
- Is your handle bar to near ? Do you have enough knee space when standing while climbing and sprinting while out of the saddle ?
- Are the drops too deep or too shallow ? How long can you stay in the drops ?

B) For legs, lower back and feet comfort. Ask yourself :

- Is your saddle too high ? causing you to rock your hips or toe tip ?
- Are your cleats too much on the left or right of your feets ? Do you feel unequal pressure on the left or right of your knees.
- If you tend to toe tip have you tried to shift your cleats backwards to allow to push harder and leverage your heels.
- Do you have enough space in your shoes ?
- How tight are you strapping your shoes?
- How much flexibility are your cleats giving you ? Do you knees feel any pain ? ( read about spd vs speedplay)
- How happy are you with your saddle ? Are u tilting your saddle up or down ( that's sort of practice will push more weight in front or back and cam cause other back issues). have you tried or read about ISM models ?
- Have you tried various short and padding ?
- Is your crank size matching your leg size ?

This list will grow and be updated regularly, feel free to add to it via the comments section. Remember this is a list of question, not recommendations. Comfort is an individual thing. Only you will be able to tell the difference.

Road Bike Maintenance

Regular maintenance is important for a number of reasons.
1. To maintain optimal performances
2. To detect or prevent possible problems while riding
3. Get the maximum mileage out of your road bike and gears.

Before every ride:
- Pump up tires to desired tire pressure (100+ psi).
- Brush tires and check for cuts
- Check front and rear lights batteries. (replace them early)
- Clean and Lube the chain
- Check brakes and shifting smoothness
- Check your saddle bag kit ( tools, tube, air cartridge, ...)

General Servicing (Every ~5 rides):
-Clean & wash bicycle
-Degrease drive train
-Lube brakes & gears cables
-Check and grease nuts, bolts & bearings if needed
-Check seat post and headset
-Check adjust shifter / brakes
-Check wheels trueness, rim condition, quick releases, chain stretch
-Check for any loose part and sounds as u drop your bike front and rear wheel from a short height.

Consider Replacement as follow:
-Tires : 2-5000 km ( depending type )
-Brake pads : 5000 km
-Chain/cassette : 5000 km
-Cleats : 8000 km
-Chain rings : 10000~20000km
-Crank / Bottom bracket : 10000~2000km
-Cables & housing : when stiff or corroded
-Grips / bar tape : when worn
-Wheels : when worn (or untrue), incl. QRs.
-Helmet : 2 years (or after a fall)

In order to record various adjustments you've made along the way, It is usefull to record the position of various component so that you won't need to worry about finding back your favorite position after servicing your bike.   Here is a good template to do that : Road Positioning Chart (parktool)

Road Bike Upgrades

Upgrading a road bike is very common and relatively easy. Very few manage to resist the envy to tune-up. While it is possible to upgrade every single part, let's discuss popular upgrades such as wheels, handle bars, pedals, saddle and a few other things...


1. Wheels upgrades

Wheels are one of the most important element of your bike. They are very easy to install and it is very usefull to have a few spare set of wheels fitted for various terrain or occasion. Regardless the type of wheels coming with your bike, if you ride often, you'll certainly need to change your wheels at some point. Potholes will take a toll on their trueness. Brakepads are slowly but surely chewing the rim material. And, your spokes or hubs might eventually give up.

Wheels contribute significantly to performances since they influance your overall weight, rolling resistance and aero dynamism. Wheels will behave differently according composition material, number and type of spokes, lacing, rim profile, spoke shape, hubs and supported tire types.

The main choices in upgrading your wheelset are :
- Clincher or Tubular ( sew ups) : tubulars are said to be slightly more comfortable, however clincher technology seem to have caught up. The debate is still on.
- Aluminnium or Carbon : trade off weight / durability and cost.
- Low or High profile : aero vs weight trade-off. Higher profile has better aero dynamism, a greater inertia (and more weight) but also more susceptibility to lateral wind.
- Spokes and Lacing : Less spokes, less weight, less rigidity. Typically a front wheel needs less spoke and rear wheels have special lacing for better reactivity.
- Factory or custom builds : no frills or a la carte ... tons of choices.

2. Handle Bars

Handle bar upgrades are mainly considered for comfort reason. Before you do that, note that it's possible to tweak your existing handle bar simply by rotating it and changing up or down the hood position. If vibration is a problem you can also consider changing the bar tape for something with more padding. If you still can't be comfortable on the hoods, in the drops (important) and on the tops. It might be related to your handle bar geometry. Handle bars come in various sizes typ. 40,42 and 44 cm. It's typically recommended to match this width with your shoulders to shoulder size. Drops can be shallow, deep or compact. Compact bars offer a good trade off and will provide more comfort if you've problems staying for long in the drops. Beside the depth of the drops, the bar geometry also sets the reach between the hoods and the tops. In turn this might affect your stem choice. Handle bar material will affect the rigidity. Carbon bars might filter more vibration while aluminium bars will feel more rigit. Finally another aspect to consider is a flat (wing) tops or rounded tops depending on how you value the real estate for accessories on the tops such as aero clip-ons, type of light(s), etc ...


3. Pedal choices

Clearly, if your feet aren't happy you're not going to go very far ... Lots bike shops will push standard SPD pedals with new bikes. If that was the case but you are not really happy with how your feet or knees are feeling, then you've got to read up on Speedplay pedals. Speedplay Pedals allow for a larger angle of free rotation which might help mitigate or prevent issues with knees thanks to the adjustments that can be made on the cleats. Their double sided design makes them an easy choice for beginners since they do not require flipping them around in order to be able to secure the cleat which is especially appreciated at traffic lights. Speedplay draw back is mainly their cost and some do not like the large cleat design.

Beside pedals/cleats note that the shoe size/type and position of the cleat on the shoe does greatly impact your comfort and performance. There is also the debate between pedal alignement under the ball of the foot or not... before upgrading you might want to experiment a bit with what's tweakable on your current system.

4) Saddle

If you've tried everything in terms of saddle angle and position, then perhaps it's time to let it go... Just like your handle bar, your saddle must feel comfortable while riding on the tops, hoods or drops. There are too many kinds of saddle to make a general recommendation, however there's a lot good reviews for ergonomic / ISM saddles. Those saddles are designed to allow for a better blood flow by adopting a geometry which distribute more weight onto your sit bones. Be mindfull that when you change, it'll take some time to adjust and you might need change various parameters such as saddle height, angle, front or back position, seat post setback or handle bar position. Saddles come in models with varied padding tastes, no padding or too much padding not generally desirable.


5) Other Upgrades

Changing the frame or the groupset is perhaps a bit extreme to be called upgrade. As for changing the frame, it's really more a synonym to a new bike. Changing the group set will involve : shifter, crank, chain, cassette, front, rear derailleur and bottom braket.

Other minor upgrades such as seat post or stem are common. Carbon seat post isn't generally a good idea since they are expensive and don't last. Do not put a carbon seat post into an aluminum bike because it will lock itself into your frame.

As for stems, the main thing is to know what lenght you really need and get a stem that'll give you fitting choices in terms of height so you can adjust for flexibility improvement as you get fitter or if you need for more comfort. Avoid starting with shorter stem modification. Tweak the saddle, seat post and handle bar settings first.

Choosing a Road Bike

Be prepared for overwhelming choices, new vocabulary and a budget in mind. The cycling industry has got it's pricing strategies worked out for over a century. Expect a model or option for every additional 100 dollars or so and the sky seems to be the limit with tailoring, 'feather light' and 'luxury' brand options.

How to start ?

1) Decide on your budget range for the bike itself (see post 'note for beginners' for a shopping list of necessary accessories ).

2) Read up on variants from brands websites. Typical categories to choose from are Entry Level, Endurance or Racing. A frame geometry and material will typically be common within a category. There's also a few specialized categories for time trial, cyclocross or indoor versions. Models are also gender specific. Choose your category, that'll already narrow down a bit but still leave you with overwhelming choices.


How about performances ?

How bike fit and what type of gear you have will be the main parameter in terms of performance.

1) You're 'bike fit' if you've already trained a significant base distance and have developed the endurance to be able to ride anywhere between 60 to 120 km, two and three times weekly at averages speed above 30 kmh without cramping or other recovery problems. As you develop this fitness level, you'll also experiance with fitting tweaks. All road bikes can be tweaked for comfort or performance. Comfort comes first. If you try an aggressive position without the right body flexibility and endurance, you'll be less efficient and hurt your back, joints, muscle and won't enjoy or be motivated to develop the necessary endurance. Base training to reach competitive levels takes times (a few years). Meanwhile comfort is really the main consideration and the most important factor is to the right road bike size (get more than one advise on this).

2) At any fitness level, what type of gear you're pushing will determine how hard you workout and what type of comfort and performance you'll be able to maintain. Road bikes have lots of gear to help the rider maintaining a constant effort and a manageable cadence. Initially, fitting a bike with a cadence meter will help you develop a certain consitance with gears. Where you ride and what kind of hills you've got needs to be considered when choosing your gear types. Standard double chainrings and casettes will give you a lot of gear choices but if you're in a area will lots of hills, you'll need to consider a compact or triple cranksets for additional ranges.

3) Weight
Your effort on the bike is determined by your weight + the bike weight. The work on a bike is to maintain a desired cadence/speed on flat or hills. The effort on flat will be determined by the wind and rolling resistance. The wind resistance increases exponentialy with speed. Efforts on hills will be mainly determined by the total weight. If you're between 75-85 kg and your bike and accessories weight 10 kg, a lighter bike will give a 3-5 % weight advantage. This will make a difference in racing for race fit riders. But for non-competitive riders, it could be argued that it's really paying a lot more for working out a little less. Or that you'll train more and loose more weight spinning on a relatively heavier gear.

4) Aerodynamics
Wind resitance is your enemy number when reaching competitive speed. For a given effort, the less resistance the faster you'll go. The number one impact to wind resistance is you own body and position on the bike. Cycling jersey are tight to reduce drag and your flexibility will determine how much of an horizontal profile you can manage while spinning. On a road bike, wheels become a main consideration in terms of reducing wind and rolling resistance. The more spokes you've on your wheels the more they drag. Fewer spokes and larger rim reduce how much wheels drag but they'll also become more fragile and more expensive. Some wheels are more expensive that complete bikes, good wheels will improve significantly riding quality.


Will your motivation stick ?

It's all in the head ... If you're motivated you'll enjoy and stick to your goals, you will get fit and improve fast. It's important to choose a bike that will keep you motivated. What ever works for your budget. There no need to worry about future upgrade from day 1 when choosing a road bike. All bikes have upgrade path and there's always a better component that'll come up. The industry is working hard on seasonal innovation and incremental improvement. You can be certain that after a couple of years, no matter you much you decide to pay there'll always be something that'll be able to motivate you even more. Make sure you've considered comfort as a priority no matter your objective. Get a bike that'll be able to meet your goals, and make your goals achievable in the short to medium term that'll keep you motivated to set other incremental goal in the various aspect of cycling fitness such as endurence, flexibility, power, cadence, riding skills, ...